The Merchants of Venice

After hearing countless horror stories of crowds, rude waiters and rip-off places, I honestly wasn’t expecting to like Venice … but we did … very much. The weather forecast didn’t look particularly good for the afternoon, so we took an early morning train, armed with umbrellas and rain jackets. Surprisingly, it wasn’t that busy emerging from the train station. Officials in white jackets were ensuring day visitors had paid their entry fee of €5 … but you turn … and there’s The Grand Canal … a dozen steps in front of you. Water taxis, Vaporettas (ferries), gondolas, work boats, barges, small motorboats all roaring up and down in what looks like utter confusion — I guess they know what they’re doing.

Leaving the crowded bridge behind, we dived into a network of quiet backways, tiny humped bridges, unexpected tunnels ending in green, seaweedy steps leading into a canal. About turn and try another way. This early in the morning there was hardly a soul about and we almost had the place to ourselves. In Venice!!! Of course it couldn’t last. We got swept along to the Rialto Bridge and St. Marks’ Square … the Basilica is outstandingly impressive. Waited patiently for a split-second lull to take a photo or two while there were still a few patches of blue sky remaining and the sun caught the gold and white marble.

A well-spoken older fellow wearing an official city badge stopped us and inquired whether we’d be interesting in viewing one of Venice’s famous glass-blowing factories … 20 minutes to the nearby island of Murano, where all of the glass factories are located. Not known for being impulsive, we did wonder (as we were escorted onto one of Venice’s gleaming water taxis – think James Bond Movie chase scene) whether we’d be spirited away, never to be seen again! Obviously there’d be expectations for purchases … but it was something we’d hoped to do … and with a free water taxi ride thrown in … it was well worth the chance.

Weather conditions were changing … heavy grey skies and a bit of a chop, but not much different from out on the sailboat. The heat from the furnaces hit as you walked in. We had front row seats as Simon described the process from silica to finished product … how colour was added .. the different blowing techniques. The glass factories were originally located in the city of Venice, but after a devastating fire due to the kilns, they were all relegated to the Island of Murano. Vernier Glassworks has over 25 Master artisans and we watched several fashioning dimpled drinking glasses, large, delicate clear bowls and right in front of us – a perfect Ferrari horse. Took him all of 2 minutes!!

The showrooms were stunning (as you can imagine … and see in the link) https://www.vetreriavenier.com/en/opere/vases … they did offer a 40% discount over store prices, with shipping to Canada!! So many glorious vases, lamps, ornaments … you should see the glass aquariums with jellyfish! Amazing. I think you have to have the right house … which we don’t. Although I was sorely tempted by one picture … a replica of Banksy’s Singer Sewing machine. One of a kind in greys and black with a coloured union flag, metal links embedded in the glass and a black glass frame made to look like wood. Only €8,000.00.

While eating lunch the rain returned .. we sat over coffee and cicchetti (like brusquettas), hoping it would ease. No such luck, so out came the umbrellas and we hopped aboard a Vaporetta back to Venice. There were no ticket machines, and no-one aboard seemed in the least interested in taking our money … they were more intent on getting passengers loaded and staying as dry as possible. As we entered the canals again, the sun came out and we had an unobstructed vista all the way up The Grand Canal, as river craft of all sizes converged at a bend. Very exciting.

The train trip home was uncrowded and uneventful. Italy’s unions have been striking on and off for the last couple of months but we’ve always managed to squeak through. Not so for the journey back to Rome — this is to be a two-day event. Some trains will keep running, but it’ll be a case of wait and see.