• US - The Trek West

    The Trek West – Tucson

    March 6, 2022 /

    It’s wonderful the things you see along the way.  Sign:  Grasshopper Yard Maintenance and Landscaping . . .  do they let loose a small plague of locusts onto your lawn to mow it? .  .  and all the rest of your plants too.  Arrows pointing to the town’s landfill site . .  . on Skyline View Drive!!

    Several Border Patrol stations of varying size but all resembling aircraft hangers open both ends as you drive through.  You’re greeted with rumble strips and a barrage of electronics as you approach – presumably all manner of cameras and flashlights with which to identify license plates, car description, faces.  They have these as you exit as well, just in case you make a run for it.  But in each instance there is usually just one solitary guy sitting in his truck … bored stiff, on his cellphone …. taking not the slightest interest (and we have a trailer, remember . . . perfect for smuggling!).  But perhaps that’s what all the electronics are for . .  they already have us identified… know where we’ve been/had for breakfast etc.  It would be arduous in the extreme to attempt an illegal land crossing . .  . miles upon miles of inhospitable desert.  It’s difficult to move in the daytime for all the spines and thorns – would be impossible at night . . . and then there’re the hundreds of holes (and the creatures within) just waiting for an unwary foot.  No thanks.  Glen wondered if diversion tactics were ever used . . . a flatbed truck, perhaps, with  conspicuous Mariachi band, sombreros and serapes . . . . while groups disguised with blond wigs and bright red “Make America Great Again” hats sneaked through.  Although I make light of it, the situation is deadly serious.  One can only wonder at the desperation which would drive such an undertaking.

    Entering Tucson there was a strange group of objects glinting in the sky off to the east . . .  but maneuvering through traffic, we lost sight.  Then on both sides of the road the tails of hundreds of military aircraft could be seen, parked – as far as the eye could see . . . bodies all painted white, their windows covered.  With a deep roar and thunderous BOOM, the mysterious objects materialized into a black fighter jet and accompanying support planes zooming overhead.  We were in Airforce Base Davis-Monthan territory . . . home to the world’s largest airplane boneyard. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Davis%E2%80%93Monthan_Air_Force_Base  They are also the sole training facility of the A-10 Thunderbolt II (the black jet we saw), and provide personnel/equipment for Search and Rescue missions around the world.

    Little Anthony’s Gaslight Diner and Theatre is our stop for the night.  Part of Harvest Host, they have 3 spaces cordoned off in their parking lot for RVs . . . bit odd, I know … but it works.  Old 1950s/60s Diner and drive-in . . . . perfectly restored with shiny red seats and booths, memorabilia on the walls, excellent food with shakes, ice cream or pie to follow.  All portions were truly mammoth in size . .  . we wisely shared a dinner salad and plate of meatloaf, mashed potatoes and gravy . . . even then, the portions filled two normal-sized dinner plates.  We watched in amazement as two elderly couples at a nearby table polished off entire platefuls each.  Thinking we’d have room for dessert, we were too stuffed – so took our apple pie and ice cream ‘to go’ (our trailer was parked just 30 feet away!)  Great oldies music . . . a DJ . . .  trivia questions with ice cream for winning answers. We left before the Elvis and Marilyn impersonators.  The theatre next door had a live comedy performance, which seemed well attended.  Earlier in the afternoon there had been an old car show . . . immaculately maintained vehicles with engines so shiny you could see your face.  Surely these can’t be driven on roads?  Obviously, a lifetime hobby judging by the age of most owners.  Fun to see . .  colourful too.  Despite misgivings about road noise and bright lights . . .  earplugs and towels over the windows afforded a surprisingly good night.

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  • US- Southest Arizona

    Alpaca Ranch

    March 5, 2022 /

    Double G Alpacas . . . a whole 8 minutes down the road!  Leroy and Paula have only been Harvest Hosts since January . . . but they are a long time award-winning Alpaca ranch with a wall full of ribbons and plaques to prove it.  Well-appointed pens  . . . Mums and youngsters one side . . . males the other.  Miniature horses, goats and a pot bellied pig (neighbours who moved away asked, “can you look after her till we find her a new home?” . . . that was 7 months ago, so looks like she’s found her home).  They also board two horses apart from their own.  And chickens . . . but NO rooster. Leroy (whose daytime job is a computer programmer) works from home 4am – 2pm, then works the ranch.  And then there’s the craft studio.    He and Paula offer spinning, weaving, felting classes and the place is filled with hand-crafted items – theirs and other artisans.  He spent well over an hour showing us the animals and demonstrating how the wool was cleaned, carded and spun . . . old-fashioned 9,000 year old spindles to current.  Fabulous and REALLY interesting . . . of course he made it look easy, but you know it wasn’t!

    We have the run of the place . . . can go and visit the animals whenever we wish . .  play a funny little mini golf . . . go for walks along the trails.  Walking back to the trailer we spied a shiny black beetle doing what looked like a handstand, with its head almost touching the ground.  Didn’t move while we crouched down to take a picture.  It had turned cloudy, and I wondered if it was expecting some moisture to appear.  Rather like beetles in desert areas of Peru (?) whose only source of moisture is from dew which collects and funnels down to their mouths.  Hmm, something to check on.  Well, I was completely wrong . . . these are Pinacaste beetles, and this is their method of protection   https://blog.growingwithscience.com/2010/11/bug-of-the-week-desert-headstanding-beetles/  We were lucky to avoid getting sprayed!!

    After a buffeting wind all afternoon . . . the whole sky was aflame tonight.

    Plans for leaving in the morning were put on hold . .  . the wind began picking up around 7:30 am and by 8:30 gusts were shaking and buffeting the trailer alarmingly.  Predictions were for over 32 knots – approaching 40 mph — definitely not safe pulling a caravan in that.  Stabilizing legs were re-positioned using heavy-duty plastic pads . . . the sandy soil was just not firm enough.  Better, but winds continued to increase.  Sand whipped into eyes and mouths . . . the family of quail scratching for food around the truck looked like wind-blown feather dusters, until something spooked them and they vanished over the logs, whooping and burbling indignantly. Visited the alpacas again.  The guard dogs Sherman and Bradley  . . .  yes they truly were the size of tanks . . .  especially when they trod on your foot, or leaned in for a tummy rub . . . were complete softies during the day.  At night was a different matter as they patrolled for coyotes, bobcats and other unwanted visitors.

    Each of the alpacas is so different.  Some are curious and would peer anxiously into your face, sniffing tentatively, others kept a respectful distance staring at you with enormous eyes, jaws moving constantly.  Young males play fought while older males looked on . . . indulgently or indignantly.  My favourite animal though, was Sophia the pig.  Her pen was closest to the gate, and as soon as she heard voices she’d rush out of her piggy house to greet you.  Rotund and bristly, she’d love to be scratched behind the ears or along her back . .  . grunting blissfully, until you stopped.  Then a moist, muddy nose would be thrust through the fence demanding more.

    Met another Canadian – Michel from Montreal.  He and his wife had spent 6 months traveling from Quebec to BC, intending to explore Tofino and west coast of the island.  They arrived just in time for the disastrous floods in November, so changed direction and went south instead.  Although his wife had to return home to deal with family matters, Michel carried on and encountered the Alpaca ranch.  Being a handy sort, he stopped to help Leroy with electrical wiring, construction, helping with the animals.

    In the afternoon we had a quick look around town, replenished supplies, and hurried back – relieved to see our trailer still upright.  We lashed everything possible and sat tight – hanging on when extra strong gusts hit.  By sundown things had eased . . . so we helped Leroy and Michel water and feed the animals for the night.  Felt good to muck in rather than just observe.  Clothes needed a good bashing to remove accumulated dust before entering the trailer.

    Completely clear and calm overnight . . . and COLD.  There was frost on the truck in the morning!  Brrr. Time to leave the high desert.

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  • US- Southest Arizona

    Sierra Vista

    March 5, 2022 /

    Smoke had dissipated to a slight haze by our return, and with cooler temps the goats were much more inquisitive . . .  their guardians welcomed us like old friends. One large goat with a luxuriant fleece and curls to rival Harpo Marx, was particularly friendly . . . pressing up against the fence for a nose scratch while peeking coyly through its locks with pale golden eyes.  There was a baby, several medium-sized ones . .  . two stand-offish ones who stared, side -by-side, from a safe distance (they turned out to be Navaho sheep, and resembled characters from Shaun the Sheep) There was also a magnificent two-tone male (Gus) with long hair and an impressive swirl of horns who hurrumphed in our direction.  We arranged to meet with the rabbits in the morning.

    Lovely temperature for sitting … tea in hand … watching the sun set over the mountains to the west.  4am . . . Rooster crow . . . very Disney-esque.  Right … job done . . . back to bed.  Nope.  Every 10 minutes . . . then every 5.  For Pete’s sake, dawn’s not for another couple of hours.  Rammed the earplugs in more firmly.  Saw the culprit in the morning . . . there’s just him and his lady friend.  I can see a handy stew pot in his immediate future.

    Jason gave an excellent tour of the rabbits – they have over 80 English, French and Satin Angoras with soft, soft, long wool, plus some beautifully patterned black and white Mini Rex with fur like velvet.  Jason had been a marine and state trooper (where he and Julie met) then went on to work for the FDA inspecting imported produce before retiring into the private sector working for U-Haul.

    This is a new business, but they are already well set up and have plans for paddocks, an onsite store and hope to introduce some of the distinctive cottonwoods onto their 4 acre site, for shade.  Apparently Premium crackers are the treat of choice for both goats and sheep, they were climbing over each other (and the fence) in order to get their share.  Even the dogs joined in – despite having finished off their own meaty treats.

    Watching the winds again . . . there’s a red flag warning for the Tucson area Friday to Sunday – probably has something to do with a big cold front sliding south.  Probably wise to hunker down in this area for a few days to let it blow over.

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  • US- Southest Arizona

    Bisbee

    March 4, 2022 /

    Took the back road to Sierra Vista . . . although several fires in the valley obscured much of the ‘Vista’ with smoke.  Not much air movement so air quality can’t be great . . . and at the moment we appear to be heading straight for it!  At the last minute the road veered away, but we could still see the thick smoke after arriving at Tangled Yarns farm . . .  where they raise Angora rabbits and goats.  Owner Julie had suggested we park the trailer and explore the quaint town of Bisbee as it’s not a place well suited to RVs.  No-one was home when we arrived so we briefly introduced ourselves to the goats and their two guard dogs (they look like Pyrenean Mountain dogs – we’ll have to ask), before heading off.

    Climbed steadily to 5000ft . .  . there are actual green TREES . . .  lovely to see again.  Clumpy Yuccas tucked into the cracks and crevices, and loomed over by towering rosy-gold crags.

    Rounding a curve, there in the valley below lay Bisbee . . . houses of every conceivable size, colour and design, built into and onto every available dip and hillside. Quite crazy and absolutely wonderful.  Streets leading off at every angle – up, mostly.  Reminded me so much of the town of Gibraltar.  And here, mask-wearing was a requirement (yes!).  Strolled past the tiny Brewery (but it was much too early to sample) . . . the imposing courthouse with signs banning guns/knives in both English and Spanish . . .  impressive church with ingenious method of window washing . .  a stop for coffee and pastries at the Bisbee Coffee Shop . . . along Main Street and the mining museum with it’s carts and engines on display outside.  One in particular caught our eye . . .  a two-holer sanitation cart . . .  but look what’s immediately next to it – an explosives cart!  What kind of diet did they have?  Copper was a big thing here . . .  the hillsides are the most incredible orange/red so probably iron as well.  The street musicians were top notch.

    But it’s the houses that really make this town stand out  .  . quite literally.  Combinations of cerise and sky blue . . . yellow and lilac . . .  turquoise so vivid it hurts the eyes.  One house must have had a dozen leftover pots of paint because every window frame, eave, wall and downspout was a different colour.  But then the locals got really creative.  Walls made of rusty spades . . . birdhouse sky scrapers . . . gargoyles . .  . one handrail leading down a steep stone staircase ended in an outstretched talon . . . another house was plastered with what appeared to be pilfered signs – from roadways and old businesses . . . but our favourite had to have been created by a plumber – every fence and gate was constructed with pipes,  plumbing fixtures, elbows, taps and valves.  All delightfully bonkers.  This has to be my favourite place yet.

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  • US- Southest Arizona

    On to Tombstone

    March 3, 2022 /

    Time to move on – it’s been our longest stay in one place – 5 nights.  As we drove the 17 miles north back to Why . . . yes, it really is called that . . . originally a Y-junction with Tucson one way, Ajo the other, it has blossomed into a delightfully funky place.  There’s an old jalopy waterfall . . . blinking traffic lights . . .  shaded outdoor seating among the cactus . . . the Why Not Store . . . and Granny’s Kitchen.

    Zooming over the horizon, two low-flying military jets appeared like dark crosses . . .  skimmed along the base of the Diablo mountains . . . banked and disappeared behind the peaks.  Then four more, following a similar path . . . perhaps looking for illegal aliens . .  . or RV’s travelling above the speed limit . . . more likely a training session.

    MUCH hotter today . . . landscape has changed yet again . . . vast patches of prickly pear cactus . . . the rocks and hills have taken on the true Arizona colours of reds, yellows and sandstone.  A Road Runner sped across the road (no coyote in hot pursuit).  But there were some Caracaras . . . one at the very top of a saguaro, and two more on a power pole.  Unusual birds – apparently a falcon but behave like vultures and are only found in the US along the Mexican border or in Florida.

    Kitt Peak Observatory is located in the perfect spot for observing night skies – no light pollution here, but I gather this is the National Centre for Solar Studies so perhaps not so critical.

    Pickup truck with a mysteriously bulky object in the back – wrapped in black plastic . . . and looking remarkably like a huge set of Moose Antlers!  Off to the left what looks like a serious wildfire rising up behind the sand-coloured mountains.  Checked online, but nothing listed.  Perhaps it’s a prescribed burn . . .  just hope the smoke blows away from where we want to travel.

    Arrived in Tombstone, Arizona . . .  a grand Wild West Town with several streets of fully functioning old wooden buildings, straight out of the movies  — in fact they have daily shoot-outs.  Wooden boardwalks, horse hitchin’ posts, two saloons, jail, spectacular Courthouse, outfitters, house of ill repute.  Touristy, yes, but had an authentic/working feel to it . . . and as we arrived late afternoon in the middle of the week –  it wasn’t too busy.

    Stop for the night was basically a large sandy parking lot . . .  but it was quiet, cheap at $10 and literally a 2 minute stroll into Tombstone.  Great deal.  Wandered along Main Street – and side-stepped a Stage Coach filled with camera-toting tourists, a dusty, Stetson-wearing tour guide and pulled by two slowly clopping horses.  We opted for the least busy saloon, and were pleasantly surprised with decent beer and tasty hamburgers.  Walking back to the trailer we came upon a loud argument emanating from behind a closed barber’s shop.  The door was suddenly thrust open, and a highly tattooed individual erupted onto the sidewalk . . . still yelling loudly.  Given the location, it was understandable to assume it might be part of the entertainment — but no.  This was an actual disagreement . . . apparently over the choice/volume of music being played!

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  • Organ Pipe

    Organ Pipe Cactus State Park 2

    February 28, 2022 /

    I’m inundating you today, sorry.  Making good use of the limited WiFi. 😉  We’re staying two more days at Organ Pipe — till March 2nd.

    I just love the Saguaros . .  . they each have their own personality . . . perfectly shaped . . .  goofy ones . .  . faces . .  . a robot! . .  . “he went that-away” . .  . too many arms to handle . .  even Mickey Mouse ears.

    Ooops, I lied ..  . we’re here till March 1st, not the 2nd!

    Lazy day.  Checked out and booked some upcoming stops with Harvest Host – looking forward to those (you’ll have to wait and see where we’re headed!). Noticed again today throughout the camp, vehicle after vehicle with their hoods (bonnets) propped up.  Is there some reason we should know, I wonder?  Google came through as usual .  . .  ‘Pack Rats’.  Common in the desert (although we haven’t seen a whisker) . . . they have a tendency on cold winter evenings to climb into a cosy engine compartment . . .  and snack on electrical wiring.  So people use trailer-leveling pads, walking poles . .  . anything to lift the hoods and introduce some ‘airiness’.  Some, like our Joshua Tree friend, throw a string of lit Christmas lights under the truck as a deterrent (and we thought he’d put them out as a welcome!)

    Definitely hotter today . . .  sat in the shade with a book and some tea . .  did some washing which dried nicely on our stretchy washing line suspended alongside the picnic table (not too obvious).

    Late afternoon amble along the mine trail, and this time we were rewarded by one of the little brown lizards . . . sunning him (her)self . . . on a west facing rock. It was a very patient fellow . . . allowed us to inch closer and closer with the camera.  Then, in the distance, a group of people – you could hear them a good half mile away – chattering happily.  A bunch of 15 or so youth with counsellors returning from a hike, but they pulled up and waited for us to finish . . .  and cheerfully wished us an enjoyable walk as they passed by.  The lizard was nowhere to be seen.  As silence descended once more and the sun sank lower, lo and behold Mr. Lizard returned to his rock to catch the last rays . . . it even scampered over the rocks towards Glen (who had the camera) and literally posed mere inches away.  Then with a flick of it’s tail, vanished down a hole.  Not a Gila monster, but great all the same.  Maybe they, like the rattlesnakes, don’t put in an appearance until later when it’s warmer.

    One problem with freezing the cooked Mexican chorizo . . . it is highly ‘aromatic’, and one is engulfed in fumes every time the door is opened.  Most other foods are not affected, however the vanilla ice cream has taken on a subtle but definite chorizo flavour.  Not unpleasant, but . . . unusual!

    Shady tea time break
    Practising
    dry rocks
    what a difference water makes
    Our friend the lizard
    Seems very tame
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  • Organ Pipe

    Organ Pipe Cactus State Park 1

    February 24, 2022 /

    February 24th

    Very pleasant day. The rain clouds have completely dispelled and the sun feels warm when sheltered out of the wind.  Wind in the desert seems ever-present.

    On the map, Ajo appeared to be the only place on the way to obtain groceries and gas . . .  a nicely stocked IGA did the job amply . . .  and with MUCH better prices than in California (that State is expensive!).  This side of town looked typically roadside whistle stop . . . clapboard houses . . .  peeling paint. . . . trailers selling car insurance in Mexico .  . . gas stations.  We carried on through.  Wait!  What’s this? Did we take the wrong turnoff and end up in Mexico?  A sun-filled plaza surrounded by palm trees and Spanish-style buildings  . . . with a café nestled among the arches . . . dazzlingly white churches against a blue sky . . . and even a grassy area for kids to play on.  We parked and strolled around.  Beautifully kept houses and yards . .  . many with plaques stating this was a wildlife habitat.  Splashes of colour . .  . massive cactus . . .  intricate pots . .  . orange trees . . . a strange display of ‘heads’ atop multi-coloured pottery posts . . . a Canadian flag! And coffee . . .  delicious, hot, strong . . .  with freshly baked fruit pastries . . . buttery and crisp.  One bite had a cascade of crumbs landing in your lap, to be brushed off to the cheeky sparrows eagerly awaiting below.  We went back for more, and some banana walnut squares to take away for dessert tonight. An unexpected and delightful oasis.

    On to the park.  Red serrated mountains on the right . . . sunlight showing every crag and fold . . .  backdrop to the countless tall stately saguaros  . . . their arms branching out at every angle.  Some multi-limbed, others a single trunk.

    And what a campsite . . . all pull-throughs – angled perfectly so one did not overlook another site . .  . each with their own individual cactus, well-maintained cement pad (tinted to blend in with the desert sand) and glorious views.  Literally dozens of trails avail themselves . .  from short ambles around the campsite, to seriously intense hikes of many miles.  All abilities catered for.  The late afternoon sun glowed on every surface defining every nook, cranny and thorn.  BBQ chicken, snow peas with carrots and lime/chili Basmati rice for dinner.  The banana walnut squares were excellent.

    Awoke to orange sunlight streaming through the blinds . .  and an aria between coyote and a small dog in camp.  Couldn’t see the coyote, but he/she had found the perfect, natural amphitheatre nearby – the sound reverberating and bouncing around the hills.  Quite surreal.  One fellow recounted a grisly tale of construction workers finding a disused culvert and a dozen or so dog collars – some with leashes still attached.  A sobering thought for dog owners to keep a tight hold!

    Solar panels atop the trailer are working perfectly to recharge batteries, however there is no WiFi other than at the Visitor’s Centre . . .  and one has to almost hug the wall to get a connection . . . so a certain amount of loitering as people checked their phones . . .  all masked and socially distanced (although some more reluctant than others!).  A  winding, up and down 21 mile loop around the Diablo Mountains (definitely wouldn’t want to be pulling a trailer on this rough surface!) . . .  enormous clumps of Organ-Pipe cactus – named for their appearance to tall cylindrical church organ pipes (photos a must – ‘prickly pairs’ anyone?) and hundreds of thousands of Saguaros.  Tiny ones just starting out . . .  huge ones . . .  some with just a couple of arms . . .  others boasting multiples.  Most followed the required code of arms angling upwards . . .  but a few rebels bucked the trend and had arms akimbo or curved downwards or to the side.  Didn’t see any gesturing rudely!  Apparently there is no way of knowing how old a Saguaro is – they don’t have rings like trees, but can live for approximately 200 years and reach heights of 50 feet.  Their first arms appear around ninety years of age and they don’t flower until they’ve been around at least 65 years.

    At the first of three picnic sites we encountered a couple from Minnesota who were cycling the loop – we have met so many interesting, thoughtful and pleasant people on this trip . . . and amazingly most have visited BC and indeed, Vancouver Island.  The mountainsides are a kaleidoscope of deep red, yellow, orange and brown in an everchanging pattern of layers, swirls, striations and faults.  One has to be awed at the geological magnitude and force leading to such convolutions.

    Standard ‘uniform’ among campers . . . hiking boots, light-weight down jackets (all colours), jeans, hat (straw/Tilley/Lee-Valley with extended brim), binoculars, water bottle, sunglasses.

    Not a lot of plants flowering at this time of year . . .  yellow flowered Rabbit bush . . . the tall, spindly Ocotilla . . . which is not a cactus but has spines like one.  It has long, slender red blossoms just beginning to open at the very tips of otherwise dead-looking branches . . .  and last night, a ‘fairy duster’ plant with it’s delicate pale pink puffs of flowers.  One barrel cactus was sporting three tightly furled buds.

    After our pilgrimage to the Visitor’s Centre for our daily download of emails and to watch newcomers asking questions of the Park Rangers – they’re great with kids taking their Junior Park Ranger oath and issuing stamps <grin>.  We swung down to the Mexican Border out of curiosity. Nothing to see folks . . .  although Trump’s wall was quite evident as it spanned a nearby hill.  Deciding to be a bit more adventuresome, we took the truck to the Puerto Blanco mountains and the Red Tank trail  … a modest 5 mile loop.  Not particularly well marked, nevertheless we struck out at the trailhead suitably equipped with hat, water and sunscreen, and tramped the fairly rugged path . . .  using GPS to Pin our location as a safety backup.  After 2 miles or so, and no hint of the path even considering performing a loop, we erred on the side of caution and returned the way we had come.  The sun was behind us, so the light was perfect.  The entire time the only critters encountered were a cactus wren, a woodpecker (which looked distinctly like our Flickas) flying out of a Saguaro hole and a perfectly camouflaged grasshopper.  So much for the deadly desert – perhaps we made too much noise.  We were followed though.  On the return trek, several fresh coyote scats that definitely weren’t there when we first passed through.  I did keep looking around, but never saw a thing.  Just as well there was a canister of bear spray in the backpack.

    Trump Wall
    Organ Pipe Cactus
    Ouch!
    Memorial to Park Ranger
    Coffee & Pastries in Ajo
    More Pottery, Ajo
    Beautiful ceramics, Ajo
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  • US - The Trek East

    Parker to Quartzsite to Gila Bend

    February 22, 2022 /

    Wind raged all night, but finally tapered off slightly around 6.  Quick coffee … trailer ready … all pumps off …. everything that can jump off shelves/counters secured … said goodbye to Craig . .  . on the road by 7am.  Literally had the road to ourselves . . . it was an event to meet another vehicle or see a bend in the road.  Straight roads to the horizon.  Landscape becoming more and more arid . . . scrubby, almost dead-looking bushes thinning out . . . still the roadside creosote bushes waving in the wind.

    An abandoned Gas station in the middle of nowhere is bestrewn with old shoes and sneakers . . . not exactly sure why . . . but it’s marked on the map.

    At Parker, on the border of California and Arizona we stopped for breakfast.  A quick McDonalds egg McMuffin, we thought.  Older lady behind the plexiglass shield, picking  her fingernails –”Nope … we’re on lunch menu!”  It’s only 10:30 in the morning!  Well, Subway then . . .  they have a scrambled egg breakfast sandwich.  “Sorry, we ran out of eggs!”  “What, it’s only mid morning”. Alright, a regular Sandwich then.  Groceries at Safeway . . .  and while gassing up I spotted a Bud Light Beer delivery driver who was smoking, talking on his cell phone AND operating a hand cart.

    Quartzsite is renowned for “Boondocking” . . . a place where people can ‘dry camp’ for free  (no hook-ups).  Bring your own water and have holding tanks   . . .  20 miles of ‘pick-your’own’ campsites.  They cater for RVs and campers . . . booths where people can buy things . . .  get water . . . have sewer services . . . often convention events.  Also the nearby town is set with all manner of RV ‘stuff’.  It was pretty quiet when we arrived, so acres of places to pick from.  We have a lovely spot . . . trees and bushes to buffer the prevailing winds, and well distanced from any other camper.  18C (65F).  Considering BC has a cold front . . . we’ll take it.

    Apologies . . .  it has been pointed out <grin> that I omitted to mention the Road Runner who made a brief appearance in Joshua Tree, I included a photo but went on to talk about California Quail (for which I didn’t have a photo). Disappointingly, the Roadrunner did not go “beep, beep”. . .  nor did the Coyotes we heard yip, yip, yodeling at dawn wield paintbrushes and have regular packages from Acme!

    There was a sprinkling of rain overnight but looking out this morning, everywhere appears bone dry again, and despite patches of blue sky, dramatic-looking dark clouds glower . . .  threatening more rain. The mountains look an uninviting deep grey, too.  With no sun to activate the solar panels and charge batteries over the next couple of days, we decided to reserve a place in Gila Bend (great name) with all hookups.  We’ll be prepared for the following 3 days at Organ Pipe Cactus reserve.

    Swung through the town of Quartzsite itself . . .  one would be complimentary in describing it as a blend of wild west …. Value Village … and a junk swap meet. RV parks jammed together – most were intensely ugly, but a few ‘nicer’ ones boasted a couple of palm trees.  No doubt anything is obtainable here . . .  rocks, gems, guns, knives, kettle corn, RV stuff galore.  Great roadside sign advertising “RV Proctologist – holding tanks cleaned”.

    A steady stream of freight hauling trucks to and from Phoenix . .  .. FedEx, UPS, Amazon, steel pipe, milk and oil tankers, cement, rock, cars, new trailers, houses . .  . you name it.  We seem to be keeping just on the edge of rain . . . behind us blue sky and puffy clouds.  The sprinkling of wet has brought the Rabbit Bushes into brilliant yellow bloom, and the roadsides are attractively edged with pale blond and orange grasses .  . . . and a tasteful line of shredded black truck retreads.

    Gila Bend has startlingly green fields . . .  a nice change . . . and apparently is home to the 2nd largest natural gas plant in the country, plus a major producer of solar power.  What it doesn’t have . .  . is a grocery store.  Thankfully we had stocked up in Parker, just needed a couple of items.  Google only offered up five dollar stores, and a Mercado de Amigos.  (the dollar stores sell milk, eggs and canned goods, but no meat).  We drove along Main Street to get gas – no Mercado visible.  Drove back down Main Street . . .  nothing.  But once more, Miss Google was insistent,  “turn right here“.  But this is ‘Don Jose’s Burritos restaurant’!! We went in to ask . . . and lo and behold  this was the Market!  I guess one has to live here to know where it is!  Neat place though.  Excellent meat counter — beautiful yellow skinned chicken thighs and legs .  . .  plump, pink pork chops, some kind of marinated chicken floating in a yellow liquid (?) . . .  two kinds of ground up Chorizo (probably like the stuff in Mexico and not at all spicy, but we have spices!) . .  . fresh prawn tails, and some delicious-looking fresh salsa too.

    Down the road 7 minutes to the Sonoran Dessert RV park.  Speed limit 9½ mph!  The owner gets grumpy with people driving over 10!  Pleasant place … clean, neat, quiet (apart from the distant highway noise) . . .  and capacious pull-throughs … our little rig is quite lost in its vastness. Quarter-to-five . . . . bit too early for a beer?  Hold on a minute . . . we’re in Arizona, it’s an hour later! Everything ‘pluggable’ is plugged in and re-charging.  Toasted up flour tortillas on the griddle . . .  spread them with refried beans, spicy chorizo, salsa and grated cheese.  Yum.

    Not sure what kind of WiFi we’ll have at Organ Pipe National Park, so I’ll send this early.

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  • US - The Trek East

    Joshua Tree National Park

    February 21, 2022 /

    Joshua Tree State Park was beyond all expectations, and photos don’t really do it justice. Light in the desert is so fickle . . . what appears a perfect shot turns out flat-looking or too contrasty.  Early morning, late afternoon always best.  Vast tumbling piles of red-gold granite rocks, deep blue sky and green tufted Joshua Trees in every direction.  Incredible shapes and illusions, impossibly balanced slabs or spheres . . . an absolute rock climbers dream.  And there were dozens of them.  But what were they carrying?  Looked like . . . .  foam mattresses?  Apparently, when one is learning to climb, these ‘foamies’ are laid on the ground to lessen any minor falls.  A chilling thought when looking at the intensely rough granite surface . . . skin would be shredded in an instant.

    A stop at the Teddy Bear Cholla (pronounced ‘choya’) cactus garden . . .  creamy white fuzzy clumps which only seem to grow at an altitude between 1000 and 3000ft. It’s strange to see such a huge area covered with just one type of plant.  Despite warning signs, people still insisted on taking their dogs along the trails.  Those long spines are brutal .  . .  we spent an hour removing them with tweezers from the soles of our hiking boots.  What chance would dog feet have.

    Couldn’t understand why everywhere was so busy on a Monday, until a passerby remarked that it was President’s Day.  Pioneertown – an old cowboy movie set started by Roy Rogers and Gene Autry was also packed so took some photos and left.  There were some prickly characters wearing sunglasses!

    Oh oh . . . text from Craig to say Wind increasing over next two days . .  with the possibility of snow! Well, we are at 3,000 feet.  Checked all the weather apps to find the least windy route . . . and planned for an early start tomorrow.

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  • US - The Trek East

    Downtime in Joshua Tree

    February 19, 2022 /

    Awoke to sun streaming in the window around 7, intense blue skies and glorious Joshua Trees everywhere . .  . looking for all the world like those dancing inflatable ‘stick people’ outside car lots . . . just frozen in place.  A cactus wren was wheezing loudly like a miniature car trying to start. Craig has lived in this location for 35 years . . . and it’s spectacular!  Dry rock wall planters filled with every shape and size of cactus . . .  vast clumps of prickly pears, tall, slow-growing saguaro (only six feet after 30 years) . . .   fat, round Barrel Cactus with intricate swirls of spines . . . and soft, fuzzy-looking ones – which definitely aren’t!  The fine spines break off easily and can get tracked indoors on your shoes . . . and into your feet.  Good to be forewarned. Craig’s wife Ellie had been a superb photographer and the house is filled with her stunning photos.

    Nice to have a few days downtime.  Relaxing in the sun . . . chores around the trailer . . .   laundry drying in the sun . . . and what a location to practice guitar – the altitude and clear air makes everything sound wonderful (even for dreadful amateurs like me!)  The Californian quail didn’t seem to mind.

    BTW . .  those oranges were fresh off the tree, and peeling them posed a health and safety hazard.  Zest squirted every which way into eyes and juice ran down our arms … just from the peel … but it was worth the watering eyes and sticky armpits.

    An afternoon wander through the desert amid silvery-stemmed creosote bushes, angular Joshua trees and countless varieties of cacti . .  . took care to avoid the millions of awaiting thorns at every turn.  The ‘Washes’ like small dry river beds where run-off from sudden floods had eroded the sand. Mysterious holes . . . under shrubs or in open sand . . .  wonder what sort of critters live there.  Probably not wise to poke a finger down to see.  A sudden movement – and off went a Jack Rabbit . . . long ears glowing red in the sun.  Two ravens watched us curiously, hopping from tree to tree, careful to keep just ahead.

    Late afternoon the wind picked up – light at first, but gusting strongly.  I rescued my washing from being blown down the valley and folded it quickly – love the smell of line-dried clothes.  Then we battened down the hatches as the wind increased . . . things rattled, clanked and shook till around 3 or 4am (thank goodness for earplugs), but had eased considerably by dawn.  Our friend the cactus wren piped up shortly afterwards.

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