Nobody expects … The Barber of Seville
Visits to markets are a must! They are the heartbeat of any thriving village, town or city. Vibrant … full of bustle and shouts … colour and smell — it almost grabs and pulls you inside. Fruits and vegetables arranged as carefully as any painted masterpiece — polished, turned, placed for best effect. The prized corner stalls have probably been run by the same family for decades. In Triana, their names and commodities are emblazoned in tile across the wall above. It’s a feast for the senses to just wander … although the temptation to buy something … anything … is overwhelming. Butchers … fishmongers … their counters gleaming
with an assortment of meat and fish we can only dream about in North America … Delicatessens with rows of whole Iberian jamon hanging tantalizingly (it’s a pleasure to watch the skill of slicing) … and a mind-boggling array of cured sausages and meats. This article gives you just a taste: https://viewfromlavila.com/2018/03/17/more-than-just-chorizo-a-guide-to-spanish-cold-meats/
And permeating everything are the heady aromas of roasting coffee, frying food … and freshly baked bread!
Surely, this must be one of the most photographed arches in all of Spain … Nobody expects the Spanish Inquisition! We saw no fewer than three people taking snaps in the space of as many minutes. Then, down a tiny, inauspicious lane, a doorway with spiraling red and blue sign — what I had been hoping for — The Barber of Seville! Glorious!
The Casa de Pilatos __ was worth a visit, although there was an unexpected event in progress when we arrived and it wouldn’t reopen for another hour (we caught a glimpse through the window of a woman in the most wonderful flame-orange flamenco dress , photographers and sound equipment). Wandering down a nearby street we uncovered just the thing to while away the time — a secluded outside alcove with two tables — and tiny coffee shop-cum-tea room attached. They certainly have an eclectic menu – anything from jamon, eggs and tapas, to churros, sandwiches and crepes. Perhaps our choice of lemon and sugar coated crepes and a cup of tea was a little unusual … but it worked. Thin, tangy and positively delicious. Proper loose tea, too.
Opening of the Pilatos was delayed just a bit … but it’s always interesting to watch people as they wait. There are the ones who stand patiently in line, chatting quietly … others seem to ‘expand’ into the space having loud conversations
among themselves or on their phones … then there are the impatient ones — pointedly looking at their watches, tutting loudly, and repeatedly checking with the ticket clerk. Some take the inconvenience as a normal happenstance – wandering off to find a place to sit, or look through their guidebook for their next stop. Always fun to guess nationalities just from observing … sometimes quite incorrectly, I might add.
Leaving the warren of narrow streets which are naturally shaded by the two or three storied buildings, the blast of heat was almost physical … there is a good 8-10 degree difference in temperature. An ice cream wouldn’t come amiss . . . . oh look, there’s an Heladeria on the corner! We chose two sorbets — mandarin and mango — in handmade cones. It was just like eating fruit right off the trees … and it should be mandatory to have cones made this way!
The city at night was fun … first the Cathedral and then on to Plaza de Espana. It was a warm, velvety evening and we had the place almost to ourselves — just a few people like us strolling through. It was even more impressive at night … the lights of the bridges reflected in the inky black water … the echoing clop of an occasional horse carriage.
Heading back over the Puente de Tirana for the last time — what did we see but two National Police cars pulled up haphazardly onto the sidewalk … so they could visit the Churros place across the street. Churros/Donuts – seems there’s no difference.
We have walked, cycled and eaten our way around Sevilla the last 4 days, and loved every minute. It has definitely won our hearts.
Now, on to Jerez.
