Welcome to Sevilla
Just a short hour’s drive, and we were in Seville. We are staying in the Barrio de Triana – a neighbourhood just across the Guadalquivir River … considered by local Trianeros to be equally as important as the main city itself – if not more so! https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Triana,_Seville
Less touristy and famous for its potteries and the fabulously colourful tilework which can be seen on every building,
street sign church and bar. This is where locals live, work, eat, shop . . . and sit over beer and tapas with friends in the evening.
How lucky is that! … we found an honest-to-goodness legal street parking spot, and only a couple of blocks away. We retrieved the apartment keys from the bar on the corner,and trundled our ever-increasing possessions along noisy cobble stones (carefully avoiding the doggie deposits). With only four days to explore, we were determined not to waste a minute of them, so the bags were dumped, and we headed out.
The afternoon was perfect. A quick perusal of the market, but it was late in the day and most of the stalls were tightly shuttered — only the restaurant booths were still in full swing. The Puente de Triana (bridge) was right next door, spanning the green river which was a-buzz with virtually anything that could float and be propelled by human power… kayaks, canoes, rowing skulls, paddleboards — although I wonder about the wisdom of a ‘group paddleboard’!
Rowers from
Norway and Poland (I think) – judging from the flags on their oars – were training as coaches from the support boats broadcast instructions/encouragement via megaphones. People walked, sat and fished along the riverbank … and even collected after dark to picnic or chat, and watch the lights of the city.
We have tickets for the Alcazar tomorrow, but thought it prudent to scout out the route beforehand. In the Jardines de Murillo brilliant green Monk Parrots clustered in the palm trees – screeching noisily as they swooped from one tree to next. They make a huge racket when flocks of them roost for the night. The neighbouring apartment dwellers are less than enamoured. https://mappingspain.com/the-exotic-green-parrots-of-spain/
Aha … there, in the middle of the gardens, is the column commemorating Christopher Columbus (Cristóbal Colón)
with his ship The Santa Maria (La Gallega), his sponsors Ferdinand and Isabella, and the date 1492. This I remember from decades ago … a searingly hot day, where the pavement burned your feet right through sandals! Not quite so hot today – very pleasant if a little overcast.
For dinner we tried a nearby place recommended by the apartment host. We arrived suitably late, even by Spanish standards, but there were few people about. Perhaps because it was Monday? The bar – an homage to bullfighting – boasted a faded matador’s suit in a glass cabinet, various accouterments of the fight … and two massive mounted bulls’ heads on the wall … horns wickedly sharp … glass eyes glaring down accusingly. They were in a cordoned off area making photos difficult. A disinterested waiter brought beer, and then seemed to lose all interest as we deliberated on which tapas to try. We ordered more beers … these were banged down, dismissively. Stories of surly waiters abound, but this was our first encounter – perhaps he didn’t care for non-Spanish-speaking patrons. The food was … okay. The croquettas were not a patch on the ones in Barcelona … the mushroom and asparagus omelet was decidedly better,the sardinas con tomate mermelada however, were nicely smoked and very tasty. Too bad the camareros were jerks. Can’t win them all, I ‘spose.
On the other hand, the Alcazar was magnificent, and absolutely not to be missed! Busy, but not congested … phenomenal mosaics, intricately carved archways, ceilings and doors, immense tapestries, tiled water courses and vast tranquil gardens. You’d think we’d be a little complacent by now . . . but not here. This video gives you just a taste: https://youtu.be/XAp22X6-jtc
A reviving refreshment break of hot chocolate and a chicken empanada under the bougainvillea and wisteria arbor … with peacocks pecking around the tables instead of pigeons … children (and adults) were enthralled. We finally left after 4 hours … not because we’d seen everything, but because our feet needed a break.
Directly opposite, across the plaza is the magnificence that is Seville’s Cathedral with an almost never-ending line of horse-drawn carriages transporting visitors around the plaza and cathedral. The clip-clop of horse-shoes echoing off the walls.
On one of the main streets, a puppeteer with an entire orchestra – cleverly coordinated to the music — with a solo violinist taking centre stage
Further along the river bank a life-size replica of Ferdinand Magellan’s sailing ship – the Victoria – sat at anchor — this current vessel is a collaboration between Spain and Portugal to commemorate 500 years of his voyage around the world.
With a small supermercado and fruteria just a few doors down, we grabbed the makings of dinner for tonight … plump chicken thighs, red, yellow and green peppers, mushrooms, onions and tomatoes simmered with basil, oregano and a dash of piri piri chili powder. Not bad … with bread to soak up the sauce.
