Carmona & A Courtyard of Oranges

Leaving the hazy skies around Antequera behind, you could see the cause … several processing plants in the distance emitting plumes of white smoke or steam which hung in the still air … an almost intangible hint of olive too.  

I thought we’d seen olive groves, but driving the road towards Sevilla, nothing prepares you for production on this magnitude.  Intense.  Dense.  Massive … often single operations as far as the eye can see, and the landscape is much flatter here. Sadly, none appear to be actively harvesting at the moment – that would have been a sight.

Carmona rises from the flat surrounding plain, rather like the bluffs of Ronda.  The fields, now ploughed and empty, would have been a sea of yellow sunflowers in the summer. Guarding the gates is the fort and Puerta de Sevilla (Door of Seville) on the right … spectacular domed churches with their gleaming tiles on the left.  Immediately one is plunged into a maze of one-way streets lined with parked cars, restaurants spilling their tables over the sidewalks, and people, in ones and twos, or entire groups  Parking – as always – is an issue.  Bright blue ‘P’ signs confidently direct you off … only to vanish into thin air.  Streets all seem to have no parking symbols, which obviously no-one pays attention to.  We took a chance and squeezed in.  I think tow trucks would be hard pressed to maneuver here! (she said hopefully).  Figuring it was easier to carry our lunch inside,  we found a convenient bench and sat munching.  People wandered by with a nod, smile or buenas … we even got wished buon provecho (bon apetit!).  One salivating boxer dog sat down in the middle of the street, and had to be dragged away by embarrassed owners – to the merriment of all.  There are literally too many churches to count.  From our bench I can see four … and a convent. All gloriously different in style – the light is perfect for photos.

Views in all directions from the top of the fort … over the roofs, domes and spires … flags of Spain, Andalucia and Carmona snapping in the breeze.  Tiny microcosms of daily life unfolding below in the rooftop gardens and washing lines.  One obviously did washing for a nearby hotel or guesthouse, for there were lines and lines of dazzlingly white sheets all hung with red and green pegs … but tucked in behind, away from prying eyes, was a row of more personal ‘smalls’ … although Glen commented that these were not of a particularly small nature! Tsk!

Our next residence – for two nights – was just outside Carmona.  Quite rural this time –  a cortijo. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cortijo  Laurance and her dogs welcomed us to the property with its rows and rows of orange and mandarin trees laden with ripening fruit, and edged with lavender plants.  A large Swimming pool and deck surrounded by oleander and pine, and comfortable loungers, still too cold for a dip, but lovely to contemplate. Simple, rustic, peaceful setting … with a slight French flavour.  It had rained heavily the day before we arrived, and the sudden moisture had brought an influx of hundreds and hundreds of red and black Squash Bugs. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Corizus_hyoscyami Inoffensive, slow-moving, and thankfully non-smelly when squashed, they littered the ground and climbed the walls … for the most part remaining outside – although the odd one trundled inside when the door was open, and unceremoniously squished.  They had mostly disappeared the following day.  Three large dogs, of indeterminate parentage, could most often be found either side of the big wrought-iron gates to the courtyard – with the best view of any incoming visitor (real or imagined) … or suddenly beside you, peering earnestly into your face requesting a scratch behind the ear.  One of the two cats – jet black and agile – had perfected the knack of following you inside, like a shadow … and had to be shooed outside again.

One of the days we are here is Sunday, so we brought enough food with us.  The Spaghetti went perfectly with the bottle of  red wine which Laurance had thoughtfully left us.

In a nearby out-building, Laurance had set up a big copper still . . .  No… not what you’re thinking!!  This was for distilling essential oils from the lavender and orange peel and flowers which she provided for perfumes and cosmetics.