Viareggio
Well, we HAD planned to catch the Lucca Saturday market before we left. The website said it closed at one, but stalls were packed and gone before noon. So … onto plan B. Black thunder clouds were gathering behind us … blue skies towards the coast … it was a no brainer. Head for Viareggio … back roads, of course, with a stop in Pietrasanta on the way. After last night’s heavy rain, everything glistened in the sun and the air was crystal clear. As we cruised around one corner, the ground dropped away and the whole valley lay spread beneath. “There’s nowhere to pull over and take a photo!” I wailed. Halfway down there was a miniature layby … a quick u-turn and we returned to the top. I don’t think photos will really do justice to that view, but I did my best. This is a real biking mecca … there are literally dozens of spandex-encased cyclists struggling up or whizzing down the steep switchbacks … and with those views, it’s no wonder. Camaiore has been the finish line of the Giro d’italia several times … a training spot for Italy’s national cycling team and various world time trials. Right across the road is the Mangia e Bevi caffe the Eat and Drink Cafe https://mangia-bevi-bike-cafe.webnode.it/ advertising a daily ‘Biker’s Menu’ .. but also offering a wide range of Bruschette, pasta, pizza. After the dismal bruschetta in Catania we were determined to try again. REALLY glad we did. Thin slices of light, toasty bread (the size of a dinner plate) swathed in fresh, chunky tomato sauce, diced cherry tomatoes, capers and a thin slice of marinated anchovy. (Are you hungry yet?) Complemented with steaming cups of rich, thick cioccolato caldo (hot chocolate similar to the Spanish version) and a couple of pastries. The owner … rather like a scaled-down version of Brian Blessed, but with much less of a thunderous bellow (!) … spoke no English, but perhaps our Italian is improving because we had an interesting chat about his extensive menu. He seemed pleased we enjoyed our lunch, and I’m sure he was hoping we’d return for dinner — claiming his pizzas put those of Naples to shame … he was probably right too.
Down towards the coast is Pietrasanta – a real art hub, which has attracted notable artists from all over the world – including Henry Moore … it still has over 50 marble workshops and bronze foundries … the results of which you can see as sculptures scattered throughout town. Quirky and unusual blending with ancient and historical … e.g. the Civic tower in the city square … alongside a 2024 sculpture of a jet black Teddy bear. The thunder clouds which had been slowly encroaching arrived with resounding claps, and large drops of rain thudded down. We dashed for the car..
There was still a bit of blue sky along the coast near Viarregio, so once again we set off in hot pursuit. LOTS of beach resorts along the sea front … too many to count … in fact very few beaches are available for public use. Approaching Viareggio, grand old hotels lovingly restored to former glory lined the road – reminiscent of old seaside towns around the UK. The harbour area is an interesting mix of waterways, marinas, old fishing boats and Super Yachts. Viareggio has become the world’s leading builder of Mega Yachts … and there were definitely some huge, sleek and shiny ones to be seen. Quite a contrast to the shabby but characterful fishing skiffs next door. The old brick wall behind them had four faces of Neptune or Lions with rings, which fishermen had obviously used many years ago to tie up to.
Arriving ‘home’ for the last time (we leave for Panzano in the morning), what should we find right outside the front door … but the perfect parking space. Perhaps a parting gift.
