Pisa – The City
That’s the trouble with having a train station mere minutes away … it’s so easy to leave things to the last minute! “Did you feel like going to Pisa this morning?” asked Glen (it was 10:20, the train left at 10:42 … and we still needed tickets)…. “we could just make it”. Raced into the station … <the train had just pulled in> … ticket machine … credit card …. quick, quick, print the tickets …. validate. Phew, we made it with seconds to spare. On buses and trains it’s essential to validate tickets otherwise there are hefty fines to pay … and saying you didn’t know doesn’t hold any water, as two ladies from Scotland recently found out when they were discovered by a bus inspector …. 120 euros later! Buses have validating machines inside, but train tickets have to be validated BEFORE the train leaves the station. So I have to laugh when minutes AFTER the trip has begun, a voice comes over the PA system announcing just that. Erm, isn’t it already a bit late?
The city of Pisa is like a quieter, less busy, more comfortable Florence … Florence as it probably was a couple of decades ago. Greeting all comers to the city is the wonderful, portly and rather pompous figure of King Vittorio Emanuel II … with his magnificent plumed hat, gargantuan moustache and cape … all he’s missing is a pigeon on top! Gracing both sides of the Arno River as it meanders through town … rows of elegant buildings resplendent in yellows, golds and ochres … all with complementary shutters. A beautifully decorated sienna brown one leaned slightly into its neighbour while a blue one (Piazzo blu) across the river stood out from the rest. It was an art museum, and well worth a visit. Two local artists were being showcased … however the work of Giovanni Chiaramonti was singularly good. Oil on canvas, the colours were vibrant and engaging. The museum housed many other accomplished artists – my particular favourite was Gherardo Poli https://www.invaluable.com/auction-lot/gherardo-poli-1674-1739-capriccio-con-approdo-flu-27-c-13040fe8c7 … if you hover your mouse over the painting, you can view sections in more detail. There must’ve been at least a dozen of his throughout. They are the kind of painting you can look at for years and still see something new, and the characters are riotous. Also in the museum was a fine example of a 19th century nobleman’s house – games room, study/library, music room, dining room … you had to keep looking up because the ceilings were magnificently painted … an extensive coin collection, and quite stunning examples of ancient pottery in remarkable condition.
A true craft market across the way – with tasteful offerings in wood, metal and fabric … overseen by a statue of Garibaldi. An almost-missed sign pointed to Pisa’s old subterranean public baths (Bagni Pubblici). These weren’t your modern banks of grotty toilets with hard-faced attendants giving you the eye and demanding a euro for each use … no, these consisted of rows and rows of individual rooms with proper old-fashioned baths and squat toilets which people had used years ago for their weekly ablutions. And are still open today for those in need of ‘a visit’ (modern toilet) — a bargain too, at only 0.50 euro.
Further along the river a tiny forgotten church blocking the sidewalk – looking completely out-of-place with its surroundings with its intricate Gothic decorations. Santa Maria della Spina. Originally built in 1230 as a Sailor’s prayer hall, it was moved to this location to prevent it sinking into the mud. Away from the river uncrowded and lovely old Plazas with a real community feel .. like the one we sat in while savouring a pistachio gelato — hand made by the shop owner’s husband. Shame the peacefulness changed as you approached The Tower and Duomo once more, and vendors hustled for custom in already busy sidewalk cafes, We didn’t stop this time, just hurried on through to the train station and home. It had been another most enjoyable day.
