A Perfect Execution!
Every April 25th Panzano celebrates National Liberation Day by putting on a Festa della Stagion Buona to beat all festivals. Several days beforehand, furious pockets of activity took place all over town … in the square … beside the church … outside restaurants as tables, benches and canopies lined the street. Platforms were constructed by teams of young men … hammer in one hand … beer in the other (things may not go well). Red and white flags festooned every building, fluttering gaily in a multitude of designs … diagonal, squared, striped. Red and white are the colours of Tuscany.
The weather held, with just a few sprinkles … could have been warmer, but as our apartment was literally a 5 minute walk from all the activity, we could pop back any time we liked. Whole pigs were stuffed and roasted for the porchetta sandwiches … wine and beer started flowing mid morning. Why do all the plastic cups have coloured clips on the rim? Type of drink, perhaps … how many refills? No … they are attached to a black cord so it can be worn around your neck, leaving your hands free to eat. Very clever. By this time our friends had arrived and we took in the sights. Two jugglers dressed as jesters entertained one crowd before moving along, delighting children along the way … a stall with medieval swords, battle axes, helmets and chain mail with everyone dressed in period costume. There were honey stalls, and handicrafts, calligraphy posters … an enormous black and white rabbit (!) … we didn’t ask, but the kids loved feeding it. I really can’t emphasize enough how privileged we felt to be included in the festivities, because the atmosphere was just amazing. You could feel and see the pride and satisfaction of a job well done. The work that went into making those costumes was remarkable – nothing half-hearted. Everywhere people sat happily munching and chatting to neighbours.
The parade didn’t start until 4 and as it was a touch chilly all of us went back to the apartment for hot chocolate, till the appointed hour. The oxen and cart had arrived … beautiful white beasts … placid and gentle … looking around unconcerned with the noise and bustle. All the townsfolk in their richly-hued costumes commenced the parade down from the church, through the village and into the square, followed by a ferocious-looking executioner in tunic and hood, brandishing a club – he was riding in the oxcart. A gaggle of monks with branches, pulled a caged chicken (plucked and quite definitely deceased) and a Nobleman on horseback brought up the rear. Young and old hung out of upper windows to get the best views.
Proclamations were made … trumpets sounded …. drums were beaten. The condemned man (although this year it was a woman), was duly accused of of murdering a member of the opposing family (Gherardini vs Firidolfi), and despite impassioned pleas, was sentenced to hang (very realistically, I might add!). Both the executioner and accused woman performed spectacularly. Then followed a display of flag tossing (locals – again in costume) … the flags furled and hurled higher and higher, or tossed with great coordination to partners. One skilled individual controlled FOUR flags at once, spinning them with increasing speed. An all-round masterful performance. This video shows some of the festivities — not the best but hard to find: https://chiantilife.wordpress.com/2016/04/27/good-weather-festival-panzano-chianti/ It was almost 6 o’clock before we headed back for dinner after a thoroughly enjoyable day. Ravioli and rigatoni with homemade pesto and ragu sauces … and what better way to cap off the meal, than two flavours of Gelato – cherry and vanilla with chunks of chocolate. Yum!
