Welcome to Sicily
Breakfast in a sun-filled room with blue and while table cloths and a wide selection of comestibles — such a civilized way to start the day. Ernesto swept in with a large pot of freshly brewed coffee and another of milk (your choice of hot or cold). Juice, sliced meats and cheeses, yoghurt, croissants, crusty rolls, jams and an interesting-looking cake dusted with icing sugar (coconut and apple – quite delicious). There was an hour before our bus, so Giovani stored our bags and we wandered down to the beach area … it had been dark when we arrived the night before. Pozallo had obviously been quite a grand place in previous years, but now was slightly faded . . . obviously more of a stop-off place for those taking or arriving by ferry … but it wasn’t really tourist season yet, either. There were tranquil gardens with massively-trunked trees, one actually used a nearby tree to prop itself up. A curbside gas station — no need to leave the road or get out!
Although Pozallo used to have a running train system, it’s now defunct … the old train station is still used as a pick up point for Tren Italia buses. Coordinates plugged in, we set off. Indeed there was a train station – desolate and shuttered … no sign, notice or indication that this was a bus stop. We stood on the side of the road and waited. People drove by and stared curiously … well that gives us confidence, not! Stopped a man on his morning constitutional to enquire whether this really was the bus stop to Ragusa. Apparently not. We needed the bus station … go down this road, turn right, round the roundabout then left (sinistra). Along the way saw a coach that was going to Catania, so we enquired whether they knew where the Ragusa bus left from. The bus driver and assistant consulted — over the road, but not until 1:00pm! There was noo bus stop that we could see. Off we set again and this time encountered a tradesman with his truck …maybe he knows. He thought we should go back the way we’d come … no, no said his friend we need to go to the main road along the waterfront and catch a bus there. A lady’s voice from the balcony above joined in and there was a lively three way conversation – the general consensus was to head to the waterfront where there were lots of buses.
By this point we were feeling weary. It was getting quite hot dragging our cases along behind. We found a shady bench overlooking the sea and considered our options. A phone call to the Tren Italia help line assured us that yes, there was a bus on Saturdays from the Old Train station at 11:00 am and 4:00pm. We purchased two more tickets, this time for 4pm … three and a half hours to kill. It was no hardship sitting eating gelato while watching the waves and children in the park. Further along there was a cafe with excellent coffee and a very friendly waitress … then back to the deserted train station to see if the bus would show up this time.
Rather ominously, parked outside was a taxi … it was our friend from the ferry terminal! This didn’t look promising. He slowly drove up and as anticipated said, “No bis on Saturdays … you need taxi … where you want to go?” We told him we had bus tickets and would wait. He drove off … but returned a few minutes later with ANOTHER taxi driver … both claiming there was “no bis oggi” – no bus today. Do they have a deal going with Tren Italia? We know when we’re beaten … we took a taxi to Ragusa. The driver was actually very nice, the scenery was jaw-dropping — with towns literally dripping down hillsides … and we were deposited right outside the door. Helena arrived two minutes later and we were soon ensconced in her wonderfully quirky, eclectic, comfortable and spacious apartment. Gorgeous plant-filled patio, a hammock, and views out the gated archway right across the valley … and a huge bowl of fruit on the dining room table with apples, pears, lemons and three types of oranges. Wow!
No question we’ll get a workout while here – there’s absolutely no flat ground anywhere. There are two parts to Ragusa … Superior above us and Ibla below and nothing but hundreds of steps or steep roads in between!
