Rome – 2
Sun and blue skies this morning, however it’s not supposed to last … predictions claim thundershowers by 11:30! It was a lovely walk through our neighbourhood — the streets looked fresh and newly scrubbed … the sun was warm on the shoulders. The Monday morning traffic looked chaotic and throngs of people all appeared to be heading in the same direction — to the Colosseum. It is a magnificent sight and pictures don’t do it justice or adequately reflect its sheer size — even with chunks missing.
Through security without a hitch … demands for ID in addition to tickets barely receive a cursory glance. Inside huge, pock-marked pillars meters thick … did people over the generations chip away bits as souvenirs … to sell?. Up the stairs and out to the viewing gallery, crowds surged forward to look down with awe at the arena below … the under floor structure, like a maze, is fully visible. In the stands only one small section of seating remains, but the towering curved walls are staggering.
Suddenly the sky turned thunderously black and a veritable deluge of rain descended … in biblical proportions … bouncing a full 6 inches off the ground and instantly drenching everything in sight. Umbrellas and rain ponchos were no match as we squelched our way to shelter inside, and joined the steaming masses. The forecasters were bang on with their timing. As the downpour abated a touch we ventured outside and were rewarded by uncrowded views. The inside displays, models and media were impressive … showing how the vast columns were cut and hoisted into place (being a lowly worker back then would have be less than ideal … no health and safety inspections!) … however the detail and precision was remarkable, especially as so much of it is still standing. A quick visit to il bagno before departing . . . and of course the usual looong line up for the ladies. As I emerged and looked around the crowds for Glen, a voice beside me said “he’s over there” … and sure enough, he was. A woman in one of the hundreds of tour groups had noticed our blue rain jackets, put two-and-two together and matched us up. How observant is that? I was very impressed! Quite different from usual tourist encounters where groups wander aimlessly right across your path … stop suddenly to check their phones … or completely block a passage as they discuss where next to invade! <mutter ,mutter>
Sun and rain seemed to alternate every half hour or so as we wended our way through the cobbled lanes – avoiding busy touristy areas as much as possible. Delicious aromas from a local Pizzaria halted us in our tracks, and we followed our noses inside. We were not disappointed. Thin, Roman-style crust, fire roasted with assorted vegetables and mozzarella. I’d like to say it was washed down with cups of coffee, but I’d be lying … these were tiny espresso cups barely half full, with just a skiff of frothed milk (for our health, don’t you know — it was later than 11:30 am after all) This was for sipping only, I guess. Really good coffee, though.
Late afternoon and there were tickets to the Vatican and Sistine Chapel. Various line ups snaked this way and that – no signage or indication whether this was a line up for purchasing tickets, or for those who already had them. But with that sorted, we ventured forth and were carried along on a tide of humanity … there was no turning back and no escape. Talk about an IKEA store on steroids! <grin> Adjectives like incredible, magnificent, and opulent really didn’t do justice to the unbelievable collections … Egyptian artifacts, ancient pottery and statues, invaluable artworks … however it was being swept along by a river of visitors – never having the opportunity to stop and admire – that became overwhelmingly tiring … probably not helped by our lingering jet-lag. At the Sistine Chapel, attendants anxiously packed us inside, with stern admonishments to remain quiet. Although one couldn’t help but marvel at the staggering ceiling artwork – the years of toil and dedication it must have taken -we were secretly quite thankful to rejoin the outside world again and do some brisk walking.
Definitely a tiring day! Perhaps we’re getting old, but I must say it was lovely reaching home, putting our feet up and sipping a cold beer. Neither of us felt like going out again, so we whipped up a large omelet with heaps of peppers, tomatoes, onions, spicy sausage and a sprinkling of cheese. Couldn’t be better.
Not wishing to pack in quite so much stuff the following day there was only one thing on the agenda … the Galleria Borghese. What a treat … not having to cart along umbrellas and rain gear. The sun was out and it was a glorious walk. We’d heard that security was particularly strict about what you could and couldn’t take in, so were prepared to check bags/jackets, etc. But no … the only restricted items were backpacks and water bottles. So we checked our water bottles. The Borghese is a MUST see for anyone visiting Rome. Intimate, accessible, glorious …. and NO overwhelming crowds. One can stroll, stop and admire …. sitting on well-placed benches to appreciate a particular painting. The statues are exquisite with mind-blowing intricacy … a wrinkle, a dimple, a drape of cloth. Unlike most museums, you can actually walk right up to most exhibits for a really close look. In all honesty, I would take this over the Vatican/Sistine Chapel in a heartbeat. Exceptional.
We pack up tonight – it’s an early morning taxi tomorrow. Four days in Rome have flown by. Now for Malta.
