The Alhambra

What a gorgeous morning.  Transit buses take you right up to the Alhambra — you could walk, but it’s a pretty steep uphill climb.  Our tickets for the Nazarine Palace were for noon, and we soon made our way through the line-ups and multiple passport and security checks.

The Alhambra was … well, The Alhambra!  Standing proud on it’s cragg with the city spread out below and a backdrop of the Sierras.  Magnificent.  Without question this has to be the finest example of Moorish architecture in Spain.  Intricate carved ceilings made from thousands of pieces of wood … gloriously tiled walls … exquisite molded archways … reflecting pools to sit a contemplate . . . and of course the famous lions fountain.  This was being worked on during our visit, but with some careful camera angling we managed to edit out the technician with his computer <grin>.  I can remember standing beside this very same fountain as a little girl, but it’s roped off to visitors now.  Rick Steeves has a good short video showing the Alhambra:  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iEseJViidy8

The Generalife Gardens were a welcome break from crowds of people taking photos and selfies.  What is it about cell phones that brings out all the narcissistic drama queens, posing with arms outstretched, or pouting coyly into the camera at every view? <sigh>  Gardeners were busy trimming hedges using rulers to obtain just the right height and straightness … or raking up the leaves which had just begun to fall.  Some hedges were trimmed in a wave pattern – quite effective from a distance.  Fall flowers and the sound of water was everywhere.

King Carlos V’s palace was an imposing square building with gigantic rings – like huge door-knockers in the beaks of eagles or mouths of lions – all around the outside walls.  Inside was an unexpected two story circular edifice — probably with excellent acoustics.  It now houses the Alhambra museum.

We meandered our way back down the hillside into town – through tree-shaded avenues edged with tiny channels of water gurgling along beside the road.  In the square we sat munching a tasty kebab while waiting for the hop-on-hop-off ‘train’ … I think I mentioned that driving and parking around the old town area was murderous – so this was an easy answer.  Unlicensed vendors had set up numerous displays of ‘genuine’ high-end shoes, handbags, jewelry etc. on blankets all along the plaza, hoping for sales.  Suddenly there was a flurry of activity … blankets and contents were scooped up … and the vendors were hightailing it out of square at top speed as two police cars screeched to a halt and two officers gave chase.  There were too many back alleyways and the police returned empty handed.  Minutes after they had left we noticed a guy in a wheelchair looking around and making phone calls . . . and sure enough, the street sellers showed up.  This is exciting, we thought.  The cops were smart though … they waited until the displays were nicely back in place … and raided again.  Sadly the bus came along right at that moment, and we didn’t see the outcome.

It was rather pleasant trundling around the city, hopping off to explore further, or take photos.  A mid afternoon break at a sidewalk cafe was somewhat spoiled by a constant stream of ‘vendors’, waving merchandise for sale.  But ’twas nothing more than a minor annoyance.