Santa Cruz to Moss Landing
Quite a weather change overnight! Awoke to chilly fog, so glad of jackets today. Leaving town we spied a single Peahen scratching around in some fallen leaves. Could imagine her enjoying a bit of peace and quiet away from her rather more flamboyant husband . . . “Oh for Pete’s sake, George, the neighbours don’t want to see that tail thing again”.
Through Silicon Valley with headquarters of Seagate, Western Digital, Tesla, Hewlet Packard and more. There’s even a Pay Pal Stadium. A watery sun appeared around Los Gatos (The Cats) with clearing towards to coast. Now there’s a sign I haven’t seen in a long time — “Be Alert” . . . well, the world needs more Lerts!
Santa Cruz was interesting but a bit touristy. Huge fairground along the shore, however nothing seems to be operational – maybe too early in the season. Long pier – celebrating its centenary this year . . . packed with upscale eateries, gift and nick-knack shops . . . good there weren’t hoards of people. Right at the end a herd? .. colony? … raft? of Sea Lions had taken up residence, lolling about on the support beams. Goodness knows how they got up there – it was a fair distance down to the water. Did they hop up when the tide was higher? Younger ones, who had obviously not yet mastered the technique, were swimming about en-masse trying to figure a way up. Already ensconced adults were unconcerned about their pleas. The croaks and bellows echoed eerily under the pier – sounding for all the world some someone in desperate need of Buckleys Extra Strength cough mixture.
Fifteen minutes left on our parking spot . . . just enough for a restorative cup of tea . . . then On to Monterey.
Salinas Valley – many of the vast fields already planted with strawberries and greens . . .others tilled and ready to seed. As far as the eye can see. Staggering! Crossed the Salinas River – and there, bobbing like a furry bath toy . . . . a SEA OTTER! Have always wanted to see one in the wild. Campsite located – a KOA Express at Moss Landing . . . not normally our style, but this one was beautifully set up, with very personable operators who handily guided us into our spot. Every possible camping conveyance on wheels was on display . . . tiny teardrop pull-along to the monstrous semi-trailer-sized affairs with pushed out sides, chaise lounges fire pits and bristling with antennae and satellite dishes. Probably had washers and dryers too. We’re not the only mad cap Canadians though . . . there’s a huge rig from Quebec, and right across the way an elderly trio from Northampton displaying British, Canadian and US flags in the window – who recommended us to Phil’s Fish Market and Eatery, as the best place in town.
Two outsized chimneys, although no longer functioning, create a landmark for local boaters. The plant, however, is developing one of the largest battery energy storage projects in the world. Moss Landing is a delightfully funky mix of working fishing village, whale watching, the Monterey Bay Aquarium Research Institute and industrial . . . plus sea otters. Groups of young single males (a raft) often hang out during the day feeding and playing . . . at night securing themselves together in the kelp so they don’t float away. There were several in the slough floating on their backs, munching fish/crabs/mussels they’d just caught, or rolling/tumbling about, just for fun. Flights of brown pelicans swooped down . . . . black cormorants in ones and twos skimmed across the surface with rapidly beating wings, gathering to roost on some old pilings – breeding males have bright turquoise under their chins. One local family had set up fishing rods on the rocks but became worried as a group of sealions muscled over to investigate the easy bait . . . his buddies on the bridge offered ‘helpful’ advice in Spanish from above.
The fish restaurant did not disappoint. Extensive menu. One can eat inside or out . . . there are propane heaters galore and billowing curtains to mitigate the cool night temperatures. The food arrived piping hot on platters that could have fed a small family of four. We both opted for fish and chips . . . I counted 5 pieces of fish on mine . . . a mountain of crisp, golden chips and an overflowing dish of coleslaw, not your usual soggy spoonful. I managed three of the pieces of fish before grinding to a halt, stuffed (appropriately enough) to the gills. The rest will make tasty fish sandwiches tomorrow. Fortunate we have a bit of a walk home to aid in the digestion. The sea lions are in particularly fine form and will probably serenade us all night long.
